The Pleasure Boat Inn

Wildlife meets pub life on the Norfolk Broads

The Pleasure Boat Inn (Hickling Broad, Norfolk)

The first time I saw The Pleasure Boat Inn, it was wintertime and it was shut, very shut. It was one of those weather for ducks days; although it was my children, rather than the local wildlife, who were splashing about in the puddles.

Peering through the windows, furniture was stacked up and it looked as if the place was about to be sold or renovated. Gladly, it was the latter. They did a good job too. As much as I enjoy a dark and dingy 18^th century pub – one that hasn’t seen a fresh coat of paint since the day Queen Victoria died - I do accept that times move on.

The Pleasure Boat, as its name suggests, caters for holiday makers on the Norfolk Broads, so light, airy and family friendly makes sense. The pub originally served the wherry men (the crew of small cargo boats), back when transport was quicker by river than by road.

Anyone who has driven along the A47 recently, may question the efficiency of modern transport, but we’re not going back. A time-warp pub is a joy, but most have to adapt or die.

The owners are, unusually, the Norfolk Wildlife Trust, but they have teamed up with landlords who run other pubs successfully in the area. We returned in May for Sunday lunch. Outside was a large family group wondering if dogs were allowed in. The dad reasoned, correctly, that everywhere in Norfolk was dog friendly.

The doorway dog discussion, paused them long enough for me and my family to sneak through ahead of them. Our sharp manoeuvrings saw us rewarded with a table overlooking the water. It was one of those days where outdoors was better seen from indoors; it looked lovely, but was quite chilly.

My daughter is terrified of dogs, this helped speed her past the doorway family. On the way to our table, we had to pass a group with another dog. This dog was larger and louder and despite being on a lead, less controlled than the first one. My daughter is not one to suffer in silence and with a mixture of her shouting, and gentle ushering from the staff, the dog owners were able to understand the necessity of controlling their beast.

The family at the next table along from us, was another large one, in both senses, but dog free. Their sudden and appreciative silence on the arrival of their Sunday roasts, was a good omen. We opted for pub classics instead of the roast. The food was good, even if the apple crumble was a little dry.

Service in Norfolk is typically friendly, at the Pleasure Boat it was surprisingly efficient too. I was really here for the beer and there was a decent choice. I opted for Royal Pillow Fight, from local brewers Mr Winter. Weighing in at slightly under 4%, it was a refreshing, session pale ale.

My family went outside to sit on a bench and admire the boats and the birds on the water. By the time I caught up with them, they were somewhere between being highly amused and highly disturbed, by the mating habits of the randy ducks. One mallard in particular, had a rather rough approach to wooing.

Less amused, but more disturbed by this spectacle, were a young couple. One presumes they were city folk, not used to country life, who had been enjoying a riverside stroll. The human male rushed the male duck, who quickly took to flight. This decided the matter for my family, who burst out laughing. The male human tried to explain that the male duck’s behaviour was potentially harmful; the thoughts of the male duck can only be imagined.

It’s foolhardy to make deep sociological forecasts based on a single interaction involving pubs and duck-sex. However, I am willing to hazard that in a few years time, when the Millennials are in-charge of everything, a rebellious Gen Alpha will be ripping them new holes on a daily basis.

Anyway, the Pleasure Boat Inn is lovely. If X-rated duck action upsets you, don’t visit during mating season.